Another Laithwaites Premiere tasting now, taking a look at the bottles they select each month, in a bid to get the regular wine purchaser out of their comfort zone and trying something new. As usual there’s one bottle of white and one bottle of red, falling anywhere in the £7.99 to £12 price bracket.
Da Silva Amoras 2014, Lisboa VR, Portugal, 12.5%, £7.99
Laithwaites became ‘Portuguese Wine Importer of the year’ in 2010, so it’s no surprise that they’re promoting unique wines from that part of the world. At £7.99 it’s certainly not one of the most expensive offerings from the scheme, so a ‘try-before-you-buy’ tasting is good news.
The first thing that’s great about this wine is that it is from the ‘Santos Lima’ family estate, owned by the da Silva family for several generations, which ensures a serious attention to detail. Secondly, they have access to the long sunny Portuguese days and perfect growing conditions that comprise “slopes, soil and breezy conditions close to the Atlantic”.
On a third note, this wine was also a treat for me as it comprises a blend of four very different and unusual grape varieties – Fernao Pires (30%), Arinto (30%), Vital (30%) and Moscatel (10%), two of which I’d never tried before.
Each of the grapes plays a clear part in to the final palate, with the Fernao Pires providing the weight and spice, the Arinto giving the crisp citrics, and the Vital and Moscatel providing the grapey characters.
In colour the wine is an almost luminous golden yellow, both clean and bright and evocative of its youth. What the nose has in the depth of flavour, it seems to unfortunately lack in its intensity. All the scents are there, but the wine is quite closed and I felt that you really needed to search to find them. Usually this ‘closed’ nature could be down to over chilling the wine, but this wasn’t a factor in this case.
This is a mid-weight wine, creamy with a low-key but present acidity, making it both crisp and refreshing. The citrus comes primarily from lemon and to a lesser extent lime, but both apples and grapes are the heavy hitters. Whilst the green notes are offset by the yellow fruits, the palate is quite dark, almost sour. When you consider that the ‘grapey’ aspect should only come from 40% of the blend, this is quite interesting.
Whilst showing a bit of a tangy after-taste, it has a good long length which manages to retain the musky fruit. When looking at the online comments for this wine it appears that it is a bit of fence-sitter, with as many liking this as disliking the final product, but I enjoyed it and would potentially purchase in future.
Inca Tree Malbec 2015, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5%, £10.49
With this wine sitting in the top part of the price category I was initially hopeful (most recent Premiere examples have peaked at the £9.99 bracket). As many will know, Malbec is the French originated, but Argentine adopted grape variety, so a wine of this variety in this country (and at this price) should be top notch.
The bottle is well presented, with the image of the Jaguar (almost evoking that of the Ram on the 2000 Mouton) on the label to pay tribute to local folklore, where the animal is sacred and elusive.
In the glass this is a nice deep youthful purple, and the nose hits you even before you get to the glass which is always a good sign of complexity. The first impressions of the nose are of sweet red cherry, plums and damsons.
Whilst the body was medium, the high acid actually kept the overall sensation fairly light. On the first day I tried this wine the fruit disappeared pretty quickly on the mid-palate, leaving only a spiciness rather than the fruit. In lieu of a satisfactory tasting I decided to give this wine another go on a second date and it was well worth it. Keeping the wine the extra day allowed the mid-palate to fill out with plummy fruits, and this melded well with the aforementioned spice and warmth.
So, decanting is definitely recommended for this wine but, even when doing that, I’m not sure I would put in the +£10 bracket. There was a distinct complexity missing for me that would elevate it to anything above the £8 level and I was perhaps doing more than I should have, trying to coax something out of it. It’s clearly a wine that is all about primary fruit and upfront exposure and, based on this tasting, is not something I would buy again.
So the Premiere story this month seems to be the cheaper white wine turned out to show better than the more expensive red. Interesting stuff.