It’s always a great opportunity and pleasure to learn directly from the experts, getting their forensic insight as to the finer details of a wine. As part of last weeks Australia Day tasting I attended the ‘McLaren Vale’s Great Grenache’ masterclass led by Australia and Portugal wine specialist Sarah Ahmed.
Being more familiar with Grenache from a France/Spain perspective this was a good way for me to become more acquainted with it when produced in a warm climate (nearby Adelaide is the driest of Australia’s capital cities) and, knowing that Sarah would choose wines specifically to run the gamut of what McLaren Vale Grenache has to offer, I looked forward to being able to understand and appreciate how the various flavour components are driven specifically by terroir.
As something of a hangover from the old days of fortified wine, McLaren Vale has 1/3rd of Australia’s plantings of Grenache. The geology of the region is incredibly diverse with something like 40 different soil/rock types but, in a nutshell, the sandier and lower lying south gives way to more complex and rockier soil in the north as the altitude ascends in to the inland mountain ranges. It was likened to looking north as if “reaching for the spice rack”.
If there was any kind of mission statement for the session it was to highlight that “Grenache delivers what Pinot Noir promises” and, with the use of Burgundian techniques such as whole bunch pressing (and malolactic fermentation) to drive the softer fruits and the use of well-seasoned French oak, it is possible to craft well-structured/balanced wines as opposed to simply warm climate Grenache fruit-bombs.
The wines on show clearly proved that this was the case and there were some wonderfully fragrant, well-judged blends where you would be hard pressed to say that you were drinking 15% abv. You can read much more about the scene setting and lead-up to the tasting here.
The flight of 8 wines ran from the most recent vintage backwards and presented many wines that were not available to try in the wider tasting event. In this first part of two pieces on the masterclass I will go through my notes on the first 3 wines tasted, with the remaining 5 wines covered in the 2nd part.
Wirra Wirra ‘The Absconder’ McLaren Vale Grenache 2015, 14.5% (£40)
From towards the southern central part of McLaren Vale with a blend of southern sand and the stone and schist soils of the north, this wine was also on show at the main event and I was keen to see if my notes differed when casting a more critical eye on it. What came across more in the masterclass was the crunchiness of the fruit and the spice and leathery notes. Sarah pointed out that the wine spends 9 months in seasoned oak and, perhaps being made aware of this, I became more attuned to those qualities.
Other than that I recorded a lightness of touch on the palate in terms of delicate aromatics and a fresh and fruity quality. Cherry and plum fruits abound and a light grippy tannin is evident.
Serafino Wine ‘Serafino Reserve’ McLaren Vale Grenache 2014, 14.5% (£25, not currently imported)
Sarah described how the sandy soils really come through on to the wine in the shape of the sandpaper tannins, as well as the lighter soil type highlighting the lighter notes and aromatics. Indeed this wine was full of fragrance and contained mouth-wateringly fresh cherry and kirsch flavour.
The juicy fruit was matched with a well-pitched acidity, with only the slightly raw tannins off balance. Nevertheless this wine was the epitome of the reason that I placed myself in the masterclass, to see how the landscape makes it’s presence felt in the end product.
Bekkers Wine ‘Bekkars’ McLaren Vale Grenache 2014, 15% (£50)
Up to the north of McLaren Vale now where the soils comprise sand, ironstone, loam and clay, and another good example of how the darker denser make-up brings out the darker denser notes of the Grenache.
We had clearly hit a different level of richness and concentration with this wine, but again it was so well balanced against the medium acidity. With hints of both black and red fruits, invigorated and lifted through 20% whole bunch pressing, the 18 months spent maturing in seasoned French oak drew out the spicier notes which rounded out the whole.
To keep reading about the next 5 wines in the flight and the conclusion of the masterclass, please click here.
With thanks to Wine Australia for providing the ticket to this fascinating masterclass