I’ve been sent a couple of youthful 2015’s from the Laithwaites Premiere scheme this month and both come in at the £8.99 price-point.
First up is a white from New South Wales in Australia, and more specifically the Riverina region which is in the south-central part of the state. Being fairly inland and away from the cooling coastal breezes this is a warm climate for viticulture and so you should be expecting some well ripened grapes and clean pronounced fruit flavours.
White Duck Chardonnay / Pinot Grigio 2015, New South Wales, Australia, 13%, £8.99
The golden yellow colour of the wine hints at the good rich ripe fruit and, when you draw your nose close to the glass, you get further clues to the weight and body. It’s a fairly intense and detailed aroma full of green apples and pears to begin with and then followed up with the tropical yellow fruits of melon and pineapple. There’s also a touch of florality and vanilla spice melded in there too, creating a rich whole.
On the palate the weight instantly hits you and there is a gloopy oily sensation that is jammed packed full of various fruits. This begins with both lemon and lime citrus and is followed up with a big dollop of yellow melon and pineapple. I can also detect the green flesh of pear, a touch of watermelon which gives a sense of the liquid evaporating in your mouth just leaving the full fruit on the palate for some time to come.
This is a fresh and zingy wine which is mouth-watering, but at the same time the acidity is fairly restrained, and this also adds power to the fruit characters. The end palate is also where we see much of the oiliness (more margarine than butter) and is very much a character of a warm climate Chardonnay. It’s great to see both grape varieties playing their part in this wine with the Chardonnay (83% of the blend) adding the weight and body and the Pinot Grigio (17%) adding the florality and lighter fruits.
This is a well-balanced and realised wine from experienced winemaker Sam Trimboli and with good complexity for the price. Recommended.
There’s definitely more to south-western France than just Bordeaux and next up we have a red wine hailing from nearby Bergerac. This is one of a plethora of other wine producing areas crafting similar wines from the classic varieties but, standing in the wider Bordeaux shadow are perhaps not so well known to many wine consumers. Will this one be able to stand up with the best of them?
Grand Gaillard Merlot 2015, Bergerac AOC, France, 13%, £8.99
In colour this is a nice vibrant youthful purple which highlights that this is a young wine. On the nose there’s a good richness of black berries, figs and prunes, pepper spice and violets.
As smooth as the weight of the wine is, the palate is very earthy, rustic and fairly raw, with dry grippy grainy tannin. The fruit is dark and dense and, for me, just a little bit too singular in tone. It’s a big bomb of blackberry, spice and the characteristic fruit cake notes you get from Merlot, but all too quickly the flavour drops away leaving you with the tannin and the dry earthiness. I think this wine is still too young and needs some more time to settle, or at the very least needs food to balance the fruit. In my usual spirit of giving the wine every chance I tried this over several days but my conclusions all amounted to the same, and therefore I can’t recommend it at the £8.99 price tag.
This month’s winner: White Duck 2015 Chardonnay / Pinot Grigio blend